M. Chapoutier Ermitage De l'Oree 2023.

The 2023 Ermitage de l'Orée evokes a lovely smoky reduction complemented with aromas of almonds blossoms, pear, spices and ripe white fruits mingled with delicate menthol notes. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, pure and seamless, it has a multidimensional, dense core of fruit, bright acids and a lovely gastronomic bitterness that leads to a saline finish. Crafted from vines planted on the lieu-dit Les Murets in the east part of the hill on clay, granite soils, it will offer a broad drinking window.

During my visit to Maison Chapoutier, Maxime Chapoutier eagerly showed me around his various plots on the Hermitage hillside, a tour I thoroughly enjoyed. It’s worth noting that this estate boasts one of the finest vineyard heritages on the Hermitage hill and was among the first to adopt biodynamic viticulture practices. The house is known for its dense, woody and often highly structured wines, but under Maxime’s influence, it is shifting toward the production of more delicate and elegant wines while retaining its fundamental characteristics. Despite being a proponent of “whole bunch” winemaking, Maxime is scrutinizing this method more critically now, as global warming is increasing pH levels and alcohol. Unfortunately, many of the 2022 reds lacked precision, with firm and sometimes dry structures that suggested potential microbiological concerns. The 2023s whites are perfumed and dense with bright acids in a somewhat fleshier, more extroverted style than in the past.

Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate, Published: Mar 13, 2025.