M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 2020.
From a warm year, this western-facing slope has yielded a serious wine, loaded with black olives, blackberries and cassis, plus a bit of roasted meat. Full-bodied and rich, with plenty of fruit, the 2020 Crozes Hermitage les Varonniers is velvety and concentrated, with a long, plush finish that hints at espresso.
No matter how much time one spends with Michel Chapoutier, he always manages to say something surprising. As an owner of biodynamically farmed properties in the Rhône, a participant in several joint ventures, a proprietor in numerous wine regions, owner of a large négociant business and a former president of Inter Rhône (the region's trade body), he has a global perspective that's probably unmatched in the Rhône.
Interestingly, on my latest visit, Chapoutier mentioned that he believes "Clairette is the real white grape of the south," despite not currently selling any wines that are majority Clairette. Unless those were empty words—not something I normally associate with him—I'd guess that may change going forward.
These reviews are based on several visits with him and his winemaking team over the past couple of years, so they encompass some previously released wines tasted as tank samples as well as current and forthcoming releases.
Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate, Published: May 16, 2024.
From a warm year, this western-facing slope has yielded a serious wine, loaded with black olives, blackberries and cassis, plus a bit of roasted meat. Full-bodied and rich, with plenty of fruit, the 2020 Crozes Hermitage les Varonniers is velvety and concentrated, with a long, plush finish that hints at espresso.
No matter how much time one spends with Michel Chapoutier, he always manages to say something surprising. As an owner of biodynamically farmed properties in the Rhône, a participant in several joint ventures, a proprietor in numerous wine regions, owner of a large négociant business and a former president of Inter Rhône (the region's trade body), he has a global perspective that's probably unmatched in the Rhône.
Interestingly, on my latest visit, Chapoutier mentioned that he believes "Clairette is the real white grape of the south," despite not currently selling any wines that are majority Clairette. Unless those were empty words—not something I normally associate with him—I'd guess that may change going forward.
These reviews are based on several visits with him and his winemaking team over the past couple of years, so they encompass some previously released wines tasted as tank samples as well as current and forthcoming releases.
Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate, Published: May 16, 2024.